Japan in Early Winter : Big Family Edition

 

Yamagata in Early Winter

Planning a December holiday for a big family is quite daunting. There is so much to consider: matching holiday schedules for several children, skyrocketing fares, and, most of all, where to go. We wanted somewhere where the snow had already piled up, but the weather wasn't unbearably cold—which meant we couldn't go too far north.

We started browsing for tickets in August, which was late, but not way too late. Japan was our first choice, simply because the visa process was easier (visa waiver), and we had been there many times before. Given our experience, we hoped we could navigate moving between cities more easily.

We traveled with Grandma and Grandpa, as well as a toddler, so a direct flight was more comfortable. But again, prices were on the rise. We managed to snatch Garuda Indonesia tickets (CGK-DPS-HND and HND-CGK) for IDR 12.3 million, while other Japanese airlines such as ANA and JAL were at least IDR 18 million.

We intended to depart in mid-December, on December 17, and return on December 27, which is a tricky time of year. The snow hasn't piled up yet in many areas of Honshu. But of course, tropical children long to spend their winter holiday somewhere snowy. Yet again, Hokkaido was not an option. It was simply too cold for some people.

Finally, we prepared our 10-day itinerary from Tokyo to Karuizawa to Kanazawa to Yamagata, then back to Tokyo. All of these routes were covered by the JR Pass. It was also our first time visiting Karuizawa, Kanazawa, and Yamagata, so we were really looking forward to it.

Karuizawa

Night view at Karuizawa Prince Hotel

From the pictures, Karuizawa seemed like a little snowy town—a heaven for ski lovers—located just one hour away from Tokyo. There are several ski slopes available, but the most interesting part for us was the snow play area with various activities. For children, it was a winner: they could enjoy various winter activities in one place, and there was also a huge shopping mall complex for Mama who want to shop. The whole setup seemed perfect for a family getaway.

From Haneda Airport, we exchanged our JR Passes, transited at Tokyo Station to leave our luggage at the baggage deposit, and then took the Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station. Although we had just had an overnight flight and endured long queues for immigration and the JR Pass exchange (holiday season!), the trip from Haneda to Karuizawa was quite straightforward.

Karuizawa's view from the Bridge

When we set foot in Karuizawa Station, the first thing we noticed was the weather. It was much cooler—around five degrees colder than Tokyo. Not only that, the wind blew fiercely, sending dry air straight to our faces and bare hands.

But the sight in front of us brought so much delight. We walked to the bridge and stopped for a few minutes.

The sky in Karuizawa was bluer than ever. The combination of sunlight and blue sky brought out the best in every picture taken there. The mountains surrounding the station brought back the feeling of innocent childhood, when we could ride a bike freely and refill our lungs with clean air endlessly.

Though the building complex below the bridge felt modern and sophisticated, its architecture tried to recreate the atmosphere of an Alpine holiday village, where we had no worries about life—as long as we had plenty of money in our bank accounts. (Haha! Just kidding! But yes, it really did feel like an Alpine village.)

Sitting at the base of Mt. Asama at around 1,000 meters in elevation, Karuizawa's colder weather is in stark contrast to Tokyo. Yet the dry weather in December didn't bring much natural snow to the resort. What we saw in mid-December was mostly snow patches scattered across green grass.

Yes, some ski slopes were snowy, but not all of them were covered. The snow was not fluffy, but rather icy and compact. We learned that the resort uses artificial snow to maintain its ski slopes early in the season, with the ski season starting in November. There had been a snowy day several days earlier, but it wasn't nearly as intense as I had imagined.

I was afraid that the kids in our family would be disappointed. Especially my daughter. She could tell right away that it wasn't the kind of snow she had been looking for. Her dream of making a snowman was gone.

BUT (yes, in capital letters), there was so much that the resort had to offer for family activities.

Playground area

First, the snow play area was huge. There was a playground, a sledding area, and snow tubing. There was also a course for preschoolers and kids who wanted to learn to ski. The entry ticket was around ¥2,000–2,300 per person, depending on the ticket type, while children aged three and under were free.

Our kids spent almost half a day playing on the sleds and snow tubes endlessly. Only hunger at lunchtime could stop them. My toddler got the additional bonus of playing on the trampoline and slides in the playground, completely forgetting her initial complaint about the snow.

I and my daughter sled together

After lunch, we simply enjoyed strolling around the mall. There were various luxury-brand shops at the Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza. Unfortunately, not all stores offered tax-free shopping.

However, I think when the commercial says that the Karuizawa Prince Hotel is an entertainment complex for a family getaway, they're not kidding. The Prince area is a mini resort ecosystem where you can stay at the hotel, ski, play, shop, dine, and bathe in hot springs, all in one loop, with free shuttle buses connecting the different areas of the resort and Karuizawa Station.

We could stay there for two days for a weekend getaway and feel no need to go out of the resort. Everything was provided.

Thus, I was not buried in sorrow when I learned about the artificial snow. The activities and resort facilities were simply top-notch.

But when I said there was no need to go out of the resort, I should probably add that I did take a cab to look for a Muslim-friendly restaurant in town. There was one Nepalese restaurant that we tried, and wow—it turned out to be some of the most delicious South Asian food we had ever tasted. It was Sajiro Cafe.

Cozy Sajiro Cafe

The restaurant itself offers a Nepalese curry menu in a rustic Japanese mountain-lodge-style building. Nestled in a residential area, the architecture and interior design of the cafe create a serene atmosphere, complemented by delicious warm naan and chicken curry.

In conclusion, Karuizawa may not have been our most jaw-dropping destination, yet it was a comfortable and reliable one.

Kanazawa

Typical Garden at Kanazawa Castle

After two nights at Karuizawa Prince Hotel, we took the train to Kanazawa Station in the morning.

Actually, I had a major dilemma when deciding our itinerary around this area. I hadn't been to Nagano, which is near Karuizawa, and I also hadn't visited the Shogawa Yuran cruise, which was also nearby. At the same time, I wanted to show my family the old-city version of Japan (because we didn't visit Kyoto), and Kanazawa had it. And yes, I was secretly hoping that there would be snowfall during our visit, since I had read that Kanazawa receives heavy snowfall during winter.

Kanazawa is a compact city on the coast of the Sea of Japan, where moist air from the sea brings abundant rainfall and heavy snowfall in winter. That's why Kanazawa made it onto our list—and into our prayers for snow.

Though I said it was a compact city, Kanazawa was remarkably rich in culture, a legacy of the powerful Maeda clan that can still be seen today in the beauty of its gardens, traditional crafts, and atmospheric geisha districts. Moreover, Kanazawa largely escaped WWII destruction; therefore, many of its samurai and geisha districts have survived.

After checking in, we took a cab to a nearby Muslim-friendly restaurant, Aashirwad, in the Nagamachi district. They served one of the best cheese naans we have ever tasted. The restaurant was sizeable, but the food had big flavors.

Satisfied, we walked to Kanazawa Castle while enjoying the crisp weather and looking out over the residential areas. It was 18 degrees Celsius in winter, so we peeled off our jackets and made our way to the castle.

Some of our family at the Castle Entrance Gate

The castle ground was huge. Although much of the original castle was lost to fires over the centuries, its beautifully reconstructed gates, halls, and distinctive lead-tiled roofs still reflect the wealth and craftsmanship of the Maeda era.

We don't remember which gate we entered, but after two hours of running and chasing a toddler around the castle's gardens and grounds, we slowly made our way to Kenrokuen Garden.

However, when we arrived, the garden was almost closed. We decided to go back to the hotel and rest. Later, we had dinner—the infamous Noto Beef—at the nearby mall at the station, and then took a cab to Higashi Chaya District.Whenever we visit a new region of Japan, we always try the local wagyu, hoping to find something that can compete with our beloved Hida Beef.

Demon Slayer Entertainment District Arc

Higashi Chaya District is one of the reasons why I fell in love with Kanazawa. Unlike the geisha districts in Kyoto, which are wider and more scattered, Higashi Chaya remains remarkably intact. It felt as if we had traveled back to the Edo period instantly. The narrow alleys between the wooden houses and the beautifully preserved main street transported me straight into the setting of Demon Slayer.

We visited Higashi Chaya at night, when the streets were almost deserted. There weren't many lights, and most of them were dimly lit, almost as if they were powered by kerosene. No shops were open, and the only bright light came from a temple.

It gave me chills and a mystical feeling. That's why I felt as if I were in the setting of the Demon Slayer Entertainment District Arc.

Quiet Higashi Chaya District at night

The next day, we didn't have much time because we had to continue our journey to the next city. We visited Higashi Chaya again in the morning, simply because we were curious about how different the atmosphere would be.

Contrary to our nighttime visit, Higashi Chaya District at noon had a lively beat. Tourists were scattered here and there, but it was nowhere near as crowded as Kyoto. Taxis rolled through the narrow alleys, slightly distracting us from the feeling that we had stepped into a time capsule.

Yes, I liked it better at night.

Afternoon View

Funny thing is, instead of the snow we had been waiting for, we got a brief rain shower. It didn't last long, but we took it as a sign to head to the station early.

I would love to come back to Kanazawa and perhaps add two more nights to explore the city. Next time, I will definitely visit Kenrokuen Garden and explore more of the Geisha and Samurai districts.

Yamagata

Yamagata in the Morning

The reason why we picked Yamagata was because we were hoping that, at the very least, we would see real snow in early winter in Japan. Thus, we traveled quite a long distance between Kanazawa and Yamagata via Omiya. It was almost a five-hour trip with one transfer.

But even during the holiday season, the train was not fully packed. Most of all, Grandma, Grandpa, and the toddler seemed completely unbothered by the long journey.

Yamagata is a mountainous prefecture in the Tohoku region, bordered by the Sea of Japan to the west and surrounded by mountains on the other sides. Moisture from the Sea of Japan brings heavy snowfall in winter, especially in the mountainous areas.

Our main destinations were Ginzan Onsen and Zao Onsen, so we stayed at a hotel near Yamagata Station to make day trips to both areas easier.

Yamagata City itself felt more like a residential town. The public buses stopped operating after 19:00, and the city's bustling activity seemed to stop after 21:00. The streets were almost empty, yet some shops still had their lights on until midnight.

On our first night in Yamagata, we enjoyed Yonezawa Beef at a random restaurant just across from our hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel. There weren't many people, even though it was already 20:00.

Zao Onsen

The view from the Ropeway while ascending

The next day, we took a bus from the terminal at Yamagata Station to Zao Onsen. It was just under an hour's drive, and we cruised through the city center and residential areas before reaching the mountains.

Interestingly, we noticed many car dealerships along the way, with European and Japanese brands lined up beneath colorful banners.

Later, I learned that Yamagata may be a small regional city, but it is surprisingly car-oriented. In fact, Yamagata Prefecture has one of the highest car ownership rates in Japan. With its mountainous geography, snowy winters, and limited public transportation, having a car is less of a luxury and more of a necessity—perhaps explaining why we kept seeing car dealerships.

Just before we arrived at Zao Onsen, we noticed that the streets were covered in snow. My heart went ecstatic. Maybe, just maybe, we would finally have snow at Zao Onsen.

But not yet.

When we arrived at the bus stop, the snowfall had just ended, but my daughter spent her time cheerfully playing with the piles of snow in front of the bus terminal.

Zao Onsen is a historic hot-spring resort in the mountains of Yamagata, best known for its spectacular Snow Monsters (juhyo) in winter. To reach them, we took the Zao Ropeway, which has two sections with an intermediate stop: from Zao Sanroku Station to Juhyo Kogen Station, then we transferred to the second ropeway up to Jizo Sancho Station, near the Snow Monster area.

Since we were traveling with Grandma and Grandpa, we took a cab from the bus stop to the Zao Ropeway station. Yes, it may have been only 500 meters, but Grandma and Grandpa were with us!

We paid ¥4,400 for an adult round-trip ropeway ticket, while it was free for my toddler. During mid-December, the queue for the ropeway was manageable—just a 15-minute wait.

The fir trees

When the ropeway finally started ascending, we left the aerial view of the mountainous area in the background and the ski slopes below. Soon, the pine-like trees started to appear.

These were Aomori fir trees—the same trees that become covered in snow and form the Snow Monsters.

We stopped at Juhyo Kogen Station and decided that the weather was too cold for Grandma and Grandpa. They stayed in the heated rest area.

We noticed there was a restaurant at Juhyo Kogen Station, but we saved it for later. We transferred to the second ropeway up to Jizo Sancho Station, and then we finally saw the infamous Snow Monsters starting to form.

Though they weren't fully covered yet, we were quite content simply to witness them.

Ever since we boarded the second ropeway, we felt like we had entered an entirely different world. The heavy snowfall, unruly wind, and whiteout conditions made the summit feel as if it had its own weather system.

When we stepped out of the ropeway station, the wind picked up, slapping our faces with cold, biting air.

And yes, finally, the snow was abundant.

My daughter happily played with the snow for ten minutes and got her gloves wet. Then she felt too cold to play. We went back to the rest area and warmed ourselves up alongside around 30 other people who were also shuddering from the cold.

The Bell at the summit

The weather at the summit was no joke. It was perhaps around minus twelve degrees Celsius, but the wind made it feel even colder. My husband explored the area and then switched positions with me to accompany our daughter.

The blue sky 

We spent maybe an hour exploring the summit but didn't have the courage—or the proper gear—to venture farther. We descended to Juhyo Kogen Station and spent a long time playing in the snow and exploring the area.

I assure you, the scenery here is so beautiful that it would be a shame to skip it.

When the clouds suddenly came

Just before the ski slope, we could see the valleys and mountain range in the background. When the sky suddenly cleared into a deep blue, we hurried to take pictures because minutes later, the clouds would suddenly appear and bring a gothic atmosphere to the scene.

Later, we descended to ground level and found a halal restaurant just behind the ropeway station. This time, it was a Turkish restaurant. We had burgers and fried chicken, and it was a delight after hours of outdoor activities.

Ginzan Onsen

View from Train to Ginzan Onsen 

Actually, Ginzan Onsen was at the top of my wishlist during our trip.

As a Ghibli fan, I couldn't wait to at least feel the atmosphere that Chihiro experienced when she stepped into the bathhouse adventure. But of course, I lowered my expectations because the last snowy day at Ginzan Onsen during our trip had been a week earlier. I knew Ginzan Onsen would feel less magical.

I tried for several weeks to book a hotel at Ginzan Onsen—any hotel would have been fine—but no luck. Apparently, people book almost a year in advance, especially during the winter holiday season. We could only hope for a sudden cancellation closer to the date, but I checked repeatedly and there was none.

Ginzan Onsen is frequently associated with Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away, especially because of its atmospheric wooden buildings and snowy night scenery. But here's the interesting part: it was not officially the model for the bathhouse in the film. The visual resemblance has fueled the association for years.

From Yamagata, we took a train to Oishida Station for 30 minutes and then a town bus for another 50 minutes. We departed very early because we were afraid there would be a long queue for the bus. Again, we had to consider the Grandma-and-Grandpa factor and make the journey as comfortable as possible for them.

When we arrived at Oishida, there was already a queue, but a single bus could accommodate everyone. Most passengers were tourists, but there were also locals, and they happily chatted with my father-in-law, Grandpa.

Grandpa speaks Japanese fluently because he spent several years attending college in Japan.

The scenery outside the window was just a typical rural area in Japan. Houses were spaced apart with spacious yards, and there was a town center with a huge supermarket. Farther away, we entered a more rural area, where green fields and small forests dominated the view, with just a little bit of snow scattered around.

Finally, almost everyone got off the bus and walked toward Ginzan Onsen. But funnily enough, I don't know where all those streams of people went, because Ginzan Onsen itself was not crowded at all when we walked in.

The River and the Ryokans

We crossed the bridge and noticed right away that the infamous Instagram-worthy viewpoint was there—the most popular place to take pictures.

Actually, Ginzan Onsen is tiny. The “fairytale town” that appears enormous in photographs is essentially a very small hot-spring settlement tucked into a mountain valley. You can explore the central area surprisingly quickly.

We spent about an hour walking from the starting point to the very end of the town, where the road ended at a rocky hill. We enjoyed the waterfall, took tons of pictures, and I even fell on the slippery road—but it still only took us about an hour.

The most beautiful and ancient Bathhouse

Ginzan Onsen without both snow and  the night view was very different.

It lost some of its magical feeling. I didn't feel like Chihiro entering a time capsule.

Yes, of course it was beautiful. Many ryokan use traditional wooden architecture that makes you feel as if you are inside a little snow globe. The Ginzan River divides the ryokan on both sides, creating a picture that seems to belong to another era—so theatrical, yet soothing, with the sound of falling water.

But yes, it felt more like a picture than a movie. We could see the beauty, but we couldn't quite feel the melancholy, chills, and mystical atmosphere that I had imagined.

After strolling around, we had lunch at one of the few restaurants open in the area. We had udon and tempura to warm our bodies after being outside in the cold.

Mandatory Picture

Unfortunately, we didn't realize how quickly time was slipping away while we were having lunch. Our train was in an hour and a half, while the next one wasn't for another three hours. We didn't want to arrive back in Yamagata too late.

The water fall

We tried to call an Uber, but after waiting for 15 minutes, no car picked us up. We visited the tourist center and asked for their help in calling a taxi. But the taxi available was in Oishida Station, which was 50 minutes away.

The driver promised he would arrive within 20 minutes and get us back to Oishida Station just before our train.

The taxi arrived 20 minutes later, and we weren't sure whether we would make it on time.

So there it was: a Fast and Furious-style taxi ride in Japan.

We made it just three minutes before the train departed.

¥15,000 well spent.

After arriving in Yamagata, we tried to explore the area by taking the local bus. We had dinner at Sushi-Ro, which was also the biggest Sushi-Ro we had ever visited, and we had the best shrimp tempura we had ever tasted.

After 19:00, we took the last bus back to the hotel. We also visited a local supermarket and found the biggest strawberries ever, much to my daughter's delight.

The next day, we caught the long train ride back to Tokyo.

Nikko

The Shrine

We had one remaining day on our JR Pass, and it felt like a waste not to use it beyond Tokyo. Yet we were tired, so we opted to visit a city close to Tokyo.

And we had never been to Nikko, so it seemed like a wise choice. Not too far, and covered by the JR Pass.

We knew it would rain, but the forecast said the rain would stop by noon, around the time we arrived in Nikko.

But of course, no.

It was raining cats and dogs when we arrived at Nikko Station.

We waited at the station while my daughter slept in my lap, and then, suddenly, the rain stopped.

We took a bus to the famous Shinkyo Bridge—the famous red-painted bridge that has been replicated in many places, especially in Indonesia.

The Shinkyo Bridge

Shinkyo means “Sacred Bridge,” and according to legend, it wasn't built by humans at all. When the monk Shōdō Shōnin couldn't cross the raging river, two giant snakes appeared and transformed into a bridge beneath his feet.

Today, the vermilion bridge marks the entrance to sacred Nikko—a surprisingly dramatic beginning to a town filled with temples, forests, and legends.

It was once a functional bridge, yet ordinary people were not allowed to cross it.

However, when we arrived, the rain started pouring heavily again. My daughter was still asleep, and we didn't bring a stroller. My husband carried her while I held the umbrella over them. Trying to carry a 15-kg sleeping little human through the wind and rain on slippery streets, peak parenting.

We walked through the rain looking for shelter, but no restaurants were open.

We climbed the hill and found a nice hamburg beef restaurant. We had lunch while waiting for the rain to stop, which took almost two hours.

Then we made our way downhill and crossed the street, reaching the Toshogu area.

The Slippery Stairway

We climbed again, up the huge slippery stairs beneath a forest of cedar trees.

Yes, the rain had stopped, but it had been replaced by a thin mist.

It felt as if we were apprentices, learning to decipher the secret order of nature. We seemed to have stepped out of our universe and into another—an ancient, sacred world where nature felt almost sentient.

We wandered around the shrine area, marveling at the huge, ancient cedar trees lining the paths, until we checked the clock and realized it was time to catch the train back to Tokyo so we wouldn't miss our dinner appointment.

Nikko felt almost otherworldly. Beautiful, yes—but in a way that made me feel small. I wonder how gorgeous it would be in a fall season. However not the wisest choice to visit with a toddler.

Tokyo

Mandatory visit at Tokyo

Since we were a family of ten, we had different schedules and priorities while visiting Tokyo. My husband and I wanted to meet our friends who lived in Tokyo, while the other family members had their own shopping destinations.

We spent three days in Tokyo visiting friends, shopping, and having family dinners at local halal restaurants.

We stayed in an Airbnb near Akihabara Station, and it was strategically located. There were several halal restaurants within walking distance, and we were only one station away from the shopping centers in Akihabara.

Finally, on the tenth day, we booked two Uber cars to Haneda Airport and finished our holiday with the widest smiles.

We experienced almost everything Japan could offer us: snow activities, shopping complexes, heavy snowy mountains, an infamous onsen, old towns, spiritual shrines, and the megapolis.

It wasn't the snow-filled winter holiday we had imagined when we started planning.

But perhaps that's the point of traveling with a big family.

You plan for one thing, and somehow come home with a completely different collection of memories.