Eurotrip with a toddler (Part IV), a Life Long Wishlist

 

Matera

Several years ago, my husband and I watched No Time to Die. I found myself completely mesmerized by the scenery of an Italian town where James Bond's action scenes took place. I was so engrossed in the breathtaking landscape that I barely paid attention to the story during the opening scenes. Later, I searched online and discovered that the filming location was Matera, a small town in the southern Italian region of Puglia.

When we finally decided to visit Italy, I knew Matera had to be on our itinerary, no matter how complicated the route would become. In fact, we planned our entire trip around reaching Matera. You can imagine how excited we were when the day finally came.

As it turned out, Puglia is one of Italy's most underrated regions. It has so much more to offer than just Matera. We spent four days and three nights there, taking our time to enjoy its beautiful landscapes without rushing from one place to another.

Matera

View from Our Hotel

We traveled from Naples to Matera by Itabus. It was a Friday before a long weekend, and our bus arrived almost an hour behind schedule. Thankfully, we had four seats all to ourselves.

The weather was cloudy and eventually turned rainy. I had been looking forward to the coastal views around Sorrento, but unfortunately we couldn't see much. We did, however, get a close view of Mount Vesuvius before the scenery gradually changed into vast grasslands. We both dozed off and arrived in Matera at around 5:00 p.m.

Stepping off the bus, we didn't see the Sassi immediately.  Sassi is an extraordinary an off-white city carved into limestone cliffs, continuously inhabited for nearly 9,000 years. Matera is divided into two historic districts: Sasso Caveoso, the older quarter overlooking the ravine, and Sasso Barisano, the more developed area lined with shops, restaurants, and boutique hotels.

The bus terminal is actually located in what feels like an ordinary Italian town. We took a taxi to our hotel, and the driver was kind enough to give us his business card so we could message him on WhatsApp whenever we needed a ride back to the terminal.

Our boutique hotel was located right at the entrance to the Sassi. Even though it was raining when we arrived, my heart started racing. Standing there, I felt as if I was looking at a giant painting—an entire city that seemed too surreal to be a real place.

Although we arrived quite late, we didn't want to waste a single moment. We headed straight out to explore Matera while looking for somewhere to have dinner. And yes, it was still raining.

Since we wanted to save our energy for the following day, we decided to spend our first evening exploring Sasso Barisano (we thought it will be more flat). Our main mission was to find a highly recommended restaurant, but we kept stopping every few minutes because every corner seemed worthy of a photograph. What can I say? Matera is one of those rare places where every single angle feels effortlessly beautiful.

Our hotel's receptionist recommended that we visit Palombaro Lungo, an enormous underground cistern that once served as Matera's main water reservoir. It is no longer used today, but standing inside it made us realize that Matera was, in many ways, an early example of a sustainable city.

Palombaro Lungo cisterns

For thousands of years, the people of Matera lived without a reliable river. Instead of fighting their environment, they designed an ingenious system to collect every drop of rain. Rooftops, courtyards, stairways, and narrow streets were carefully shaped to channel water through stone-cut channels into underground cisterns carved directly into the limestone. Nearly every home had its own water tank, while massive communal reservoirs such as Palombaro Lungo supplied the wider community.

Ironically, despite this remarkable engineering, Matera was once known as "the Shame of Italy." Our receptionist told us that, until the 1950s, a single cave house often sheltered not only an entire extended family but also their livestock. With no modern sanitation and severe overcrowding, living conditions became so poor that the Italian government relocated thousands of residents to newly built neighborhoods.

Matera's rebirth began in 1986, when the government funded the restoration of the abandoned cave districts. Just seven years later, UNESCO recognized the Sassi as a World Heritage Site. Within a single generation, a place once regarded as a national embarrassment became one of Italy's greatest cultural treasures.

a lonely stroll

Yet Matera was never completely abandoned. Even during those decades, a handful of families chose to remain, either because of financial circumstances or their deep attachment to the place they called home. That uninterrupted human presence is one of the reasons Matera is considered one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited settlements.

As we slowly made our way downhill through the Sassi, we expected the empty cave houses to feel eerie, perhaps even haunted. Instead, they felt peaceful. The only sound was the gentle rhythm of raindrops falling onto the cobblestones. The weathered stone walls, worn wooden doors, and quiet statues seemed to hold thousands of untold stories. It didn't feel like walking through abandoned houses—it felt like walking through a place that had simply grown old while patiently preserving the memories of everyone who had ever called it home.

We had dinner at Baccus that night, where we had our first taste of orecchiette, Puglia's signature pasta. Thankfully, my daughter approved of it immediately.

Another angle of Matera

The next morning, we continued exploring the other side of the Sassi, Sasso Caveoso. Since we were traveling with a stroller, we decided to follow the main road downhill instead of taking the countless stone stairways. At first, it seemed like a smart decision—until we glanced at the time and realized we had to return to the bus terminal to catch our bus to Bari.

Unfortunately, we were already at the far end of the Sassi, while our hotel was on the opposite side. The quickest route back was straight through what felt like thousands of stone steps. Looking back, bringing a stroller to Matera was probably one of our worst travel decisions.

To make things even more interesting, our daughter suddenly decided she was too tired to walk. My husband carried her all the way up and down the endless staircases, while I struggled with the folded stroller. By the time we reached the top, we were completely exhausted but now it's one of those travel memories we can't help but laugh about.

To be fair, there are shuttle buses and even Ape Calessinos—the iconic Italian three-wheeled vehicles operating within the Sassi. But we were determined to explore Matera on foot.

Mama Koala and Baby Koala

Looking back, one night in Matera simply wasn't enough. I would recommend staying at least two nights to fully appreciate the beauty of the Sassi without having to rush from one place to another.

Bari

The Alleys at Bari Vecchia

Since we were already in the Puglia region, we decided to spend four days and three nights exploring some of the most beautiful coastal towns in southern Italy. We stayed in Bari as our home base, commuting to neighboring cities by train and bus.

We rented an apartment just across from the exit of Bari Centrale. Luckily, there were plenty of Asian restaurants nearby. It was the last leg of our journey, and our palate had started to crave flavors closer to home. Thai food turned out to be the perfect answer.

The tricky part, however, was the apartment itself. It was in an old building with a very traditional elevator that could only be reached after climbing a flight of stairs. Most of the units seemed to be Airbnb rentals, although a few local families still lived there—and they were surprisingly loud every night. Since it was a long holiday weekend, accommodation near the station was much more expensive than usual, so we didn't really have much choice but to accept the situation.

When we arrived in Bari from Matera, it was already afternoon. The bus ride had taken only about an hour and a half. After having lunch near the bus terminal, we decided to start exploring the city right away.

We crossed Bari Centrale through the underground passage and found ourselves at Piazza Umberto I, where a decent-sized playground sits in the middle of the park. My daughter happily spent almost an hour there, playing with local children and, I assume, a few young tourists as well. The piazza was lively, with people simply sitting beneath the trees, enjoying the pleasant weather. That day, it finally felt as though spring had arrived after days of cold winds.

The white-washed Walls

Afterward, we wandered through the shopping streets before walking about a kilometer to Bari Vecchia, the city's historic center.

I think the Puglia region has a very distinctive architectural identity. Just like Matera, many of the buildings in Bari Vecchia are constructed from local limestone. Their creamy-white facades, narrow medieval alleys, and pale stone streets blend into one seamless landscape.

Beyond their timeless beauty, these narrow lanes were cleverly designed to create shade and keep the city cool during Puglia's scorching summers. The white limestone has another unexpected gift—it catches and reflects sunlight so delicately that the whole town seems to shimmer. It turns every corner into a giant natural reflector, bathing faces in soft  light and making even the most casual snapshots look effortlessly beautiful. As an Asian, I certainly wasn't complaining about the free natural lighting.

Of course, we had to see the Adriatic Sea from Bari's coastline. We took a bus from Bari Centrale, following the directions suggested by Google Maps. One convenient thing about Bari is that you can simply tap your Mastercard or Visa card on the bus (unlike in Naples). The tricky part, however, was that the actual bus schedule didn't match what Google Maps showed.

Our bus brought us to the coast, but in a completely different area than we expected. We ended up hopping off and walking through a quiet residential neighborhood before finally reaching the waterfront. Luckily for my daughter, we stumbled upon another playground, where she happily played for almost an hour.

The Adriatic Sea and the Orange Glow

That day, the wind was blowing fiercely, yet the sun cast a warm orange glow beneath the bluest sky. Lots of people were out exercising or simply strolling along the promenade. Just like in Bari Vecchia, I love how our photos turned out here—bright, vibrant, and beautifully lit by the soft Mediterranean sunlight.

Alberobello

The Infamous Rione Monti

Okay, I admit it! the reason I visited Alberobello was because of the Instagram Reels I kept watching. The town looked incredibly unique with its cone-shaped roofs and stone walls.

In fact, I'm just one of the thousands of visitors drawn here by its growing popularity on social media. As a result, getting there by public transport can be quite a challenge.

We left Bari early in the morning and took a public bus from Bari Bus Station to Alberobello. By the time we arrived at the terminal, the queue was already long, even though the bus wasn't due to depart for another 30 minutes. As more and more people joined the line, the station staff eventually arranged an extra bus to accommodate the crowd. Thankfully, toddlers can ride for free and are allowed to have their own seat.

The journey took about an hour and a half, passing through toll roads lined with vast fields and endless rows of olive trees.

Once we arrived, there were hardly any signs pointing to the famous Rione Monti. We simply followed the crowd, which strangely scattered into different directions.

As I mentioned earlier, I came to Alberobello purely because of the Instagram Reels I had seen, so I hadn't done much research beforehand.

Lucky the streets still quite

We were glad we arrived early and managed to beat the crowds. Just an hour later, the streets were packed with visitors, making it almost impossible to take a decent photo.

We wandered through the narrow streets and climbed a few staircases. Although we brought a stroller, getting around was surprisingly manageable—much easier than in Matera. Most of the houses have now been converted into souvenir shops, B&Bs, restaurants, and cafés.

The souvenirs sold at Alberobello

The houses, which the locals call Trulli, looked tiny from the outside. At first, I assumed each cone-shaped roof represented a single house. In reality, one cone can represent just one room, while a single Trullo may consist of several connected cones.

If you look closely, you'll notice why the houses appear so small from the outside—the walls are incredibly thick. I was fascinated to learn that some are nearly one meter thick. They act as natural insulation, keeping the interiors cool during Puglia's scorching summers and warm throughout the winter.

You can easily explore the entire Rione Monti in half a day. We wandered through almost every street and alley, enjoyed a local espresso with a delicious traditional cake, and eventually found yet another playground on one of the hills, much to my daughter's delight.

Although it was already noon, the restaurant we wanted to try was still closed. It wouldn't open until 1 p.m., and we were too hungry to wait. Instead, we settled for a touristy restaurant that served, unfortunately, the worst pasta we had during our entire Italy trip—and charged an outrageous coperto. A coperto is a small cover charge per person at Italian restaurants for the table setting, bread, and use of the dining space. It's a standard fee and is separate from tipping.

a Playground with a view

After lunch, we walked back to the bus terminal for our return journey to Bari. It was only half past one in the afternoon, yet the queue was already incredibly long—and to make matters worse, there was no clear line to follow. When the bus finally arrived (right on schedule, with departures every hour), the queue completely fell apart. Everyone rushed toward the door, turning the boarding process into total chaos.

Fortunately, we managed to get on the bus, but many people were left behind. It made me wonder what the situation must be like during the peak summer season when even more tourists flock to Alberobello. Hopefully, additional buses are added to meet the demand.

At the end of the day, our curiosity sparked by countless Instagram Reels was finally satisfied.

Still, I walked away with mixed feelings.

Maybe it was because Alberobello was the first place during our Italy trip where we truly felt caught in a tourist trap. Or maybe it was simply because the village is so small that, despite its undeniable charm, it didn't quite justify the long queues and the struggle of getting there by public transport.

It's beautiful, but social media set my expectations too high.

Polignano o Mare

The Infamous Lama Monachile

Our next adventure took us to another side of Puglia. We hopped on a train from Bari to Polignano a Mare, a seaside town perched on limestone cliffs that have been carved by the Adriatic Sea over thousands of years.

The moment the cliffs came into view, we finally understood why Polignano a Mare appears on almost every Puglia travel guide. Whitewashed houses line the cliffs, overlooking the turquoise sea, while its iconic beach, Lama Monachile, is tucked dramatically between the towering rocks.

To reach the beach, we pushed our stroller through a tunnel before parking it nearby and spending some time playing by the shore.

The waves were surprisingly strong that day. Some tourists bravely stepped into the cave for photos, only to be soaked by the crashing waves. Meanwhile, my daughter was perfectly content throwing pebbles into the sea, and we left just before the beach became crowded.

Afterward, we wandered into the old town. Had it not been for the stream of people heading through the grand Arco Marchesale, we might never have realized that a charming medieval town was hidden behind its walls. Once, this gate served as the town's only entrance.

Stepping through the gate felt like entering a different world. Narrow alleys weave between white limestone buildings adorned with flower-filled balconies, reminding us once again that we were in Puglia, a region known for its distinctive architecture. As we continued exploring, nearly every winding street seemed to lead us to a balcony overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It didn't feel like a medieval town at all. Instead, it felt unmistakably Mediterranean, with just a hint of Greece.

View from one of the Terrace

While the beach is undeniably beautiful, it also feels quite touristy. The old town, on the other hand, offers a completely different atmosphere. It feels like the kind of place where you escape the chaos of city life—a place to slow down, breathe, and perhaps even settle down someday, falling asleep each night to the sound of waves crashing against the cliffs.

their sky ornaments

We wandered aimlessly through the old town and eventually found ourselves lingering on the terraces overlooking the cliffs, quietly admiring the Adriatic Sea.

A strong sea breeze carried the irresistible aroma of food from the nearby restaurants. At several terraces, local musicians were performing acoustic songs. I didn't recognize the language—or even the songs. Perhaps one of them was Volare, as Polignano a Mare is the birthplace of the legendary Domenico Modugno.

the Hopelessly Romantic Couple

Whatever they were singing, it didn't really matter. What I remember most is how romantic that afternoon felt.

Perhaps that's why Polignano a Mare has become one of the most unforgettable places we've ever visited.

Monopoli 

 

The Typical Narrow Alley at Monopoli

Right after our hopelessly romantic afternoon in Polignano a Mare, we continued our adventure to the next town: Monopoli.

To be honest, I had never realized Monopoli was the name of a town. I had always thought it was only the name of the famous board game. As it turns out, the two are completely unrelated.

Monopoli is just one train stop, or about a ten-minute ride, from Polignano a Mare. Just like in Polignano, there were no signs directing visitors from the station to the old town, so we simply followed the few people walking in the same direction.

Earlier that morning, we had packed lunch boxes and decided to enjoy them at a nearby park with a large playground. My daughter spent a long time playing there and refused to leave, mostly because the playground had a small swing carousel. She happily played alongside local children, who had probably just come from the nearby church.

One thing I really loved about playgrounds in Italy was how naturally children blended in with one another. Even though they didn't speak the same language, they shared the same laughter and joy. Meanwhile, the parents rarely hovered around or watched the unfamiliar children too closely. It all felt surprisingly relaxed.

After spending almost fifteen minutes persuading my daughter that it was finally time to leave, we continued our walk to the old town.

Although Polignano a Mare and Monopoli are only ten minutes apart by train, they have completely different atmospheres. Monopoli feels larger and livelier, though nowhere near as hectic as Naples. Since we visited on a Sunday, we stumbled upon a small pop-up market in one of the piazzas.

The typical restaurant with its view

Like Bari and Polignano a Mare, Monopoli is filled with whitewashed buildings and narrow alleys. Brightly painted doors add cheerful splashes of color against the blue Adriatic Sea, giving the town its unmistakable Mediterranean charm.

We wandered through the maze of alleys, and by mid-afternoon more tourists had arrived while most restaurants had finally opened. We decided to try a local gelato simply because its sign claimed it was "one of the oldest gelaterias in town." Unfortunately, it turned out to be rather disappointing.

The old town felt lively—not overwhelmingly crowded, but busy enough that we could hear restaurant owners cheerfully calling out to passing visitors. Some sandwich shops even had long queues, probably because they offered quick takeaway meals.

In the middle of all the excitement, my daughter accidentally wandered toward an empty outdoor table and knocked over a wine glass. She was startled and looked terrified. To our surprise, the restaurant owner wasn't upset at all. He smiled, assured us that everything was fine, and refused to let us pay for the broken glass. We were incredibly grateful for his kindness.

By then, our packed lunch no longer seemed enough, so we decided to have a proper lunch at a restaurant near the harbor. I can't remember its name, but it was packed with local families enjoying Sunday lunch together. I wasn't sure whether it was simply a Sunday tradition or part of the Easter celebration.

Once again, we ordered pasta and finished every last bite. It was delicious. My daughter had another plate of orecchiette, which was every bit as good as the one we had enjoyed in Matera. Although the restaurant looked quite elegant, the bill was almost the same as what we had paid in Alberobello. Sorry, Alberobello—you still owe us a better meal!

The Gate to the Harbor

After lunch, we continued walking toward the harbor and the castle gate. By then, however, we were simply too tired to explore any further. Instead, we slowly made our way back to the train station, taking a different route through town.

At first glance, the old towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare felt remarkably similar. Perhaps if I looked back at our photos years from now, it would be difficult to remember which town I was looking at. The biggest difference lies in their personalities. People remember Polignano for its dramatic limestone cliffs, while Monopoli is remembered for its relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle and its charming harbor.

That doesn't mean visiting both towns is redundant. Quite the opposite—they each offer a different experience. In fact, many travelers choose Monopoli as their base for exploring the rest of Puglia. Coincidentally, I met one of them at the station: an Indonesian living in Germany who had decided to spend a week in Monopoli while exploring the surrounding towns.

at the Harbor with their famous blue boat

That evening, we returned to Bari Centrale and had Thai food for dinner once again. My daughter was completely exhausted. She finished her dinner, took a bath, and fell asleep almost immediately. Meanwhile, we packed our bags because we had to leave Bari early the next morning.

Before we left, our host gave my daughter a huge Easter chocolate. I later learned that giving chocolate treats to children is an Easter tradition in Italy. Throughout our trip, I noticed supermarkets selling enormous chocolate eggs filled with toys. I really wanted to buy one, but unfortunately there was simply no room left in our luggage.

Milan  

Us, infront of Duomo

Funny enough, this was our third time visiting Milan, and every single visit had been nothing more than a transit stop. This time was no different. We had an overnight stay and booked a room at a Best Western near Milano Centrale. At first, I thought it was the same hotel we had stayed at a few years earlier, but I was mistaken.

When we arrived, Milan was surprisingly hot. The temperature was only around 24°C, yet it felt much warmer than that. The hotel room supposedly had air conditioning, but no matter how we adjusted the settings, it only blew warm air.

Despite the heat, we decided to take a short stroll to the Duomo and do a little souvenir shopping. My husband and daughter, however, were too tired to stay out for long, so we headed back to the hotel earlier than planned.

Oh, and before that, I almost got scammed in Piazza del Duomo.

Like any typical tourist, we stopped to take photos in front of the magnificent cathedral. The piazza was full of pigeons, and my daughter happily ran after them with other children. Suddenly, a man approached me and placed a handful of corn in my hand before I even realized what was happening. Without thinking much, I handed it to my daughter so she could feed the pigeons while we took a few photos.

Only afterward did the man demand €10 for that small handful of dried corn.

Both my husband and I immediately refused. A heated argument followed. I was willing to give him €2 just to end the situation (although we didn't even have any cash left). He insisted that we walk to the nearest ATM to withdraw the money.

Thankfully, a kind passerby overheard the argument and stepped in to help us. She confronted the man and even threatened to call the police, saying what he was doing was extortion. As soon as he realized someone was standing up for us, he quickly walked away.

That unexpected encounter became one of the most memorable moments of our time in Milan.

Before the Scam Realization

Other than that, we didn't do much in the city. We were simply too exhausted after more than two weeks of traveling. I wandered off for a bit of souvenir shopping while my husband and daughter rested at the hotel. The next morning, we took a shuttle bus to Malpensa Airport.

Although we were physically exhausted, I found myself already planning another Euro trip while sitting on that bus to the airport. It wasn't only because of the breathtaking places we had visited, but also because of the people we met along the way. Time and time again, we experienced unexpected kindness, especially toward our toddler.

In a world where parents often feel judged whenever they travel with young children, I somehow felt completely at ease bringing my daughter around Europe. Perhaps it was the abundance of child-friendly facilities, or perhaps it was simply the patience and understanding people showed us throughout the journey.

In the end, we didn't fall in love with Europe because of its landmarks, we fell in love with the people we met and the little moments we almost overlooked.

What We Learned from Traveling Around Italy with a Toddler

Traveling around Italy and Slovenia with a toddler turned out to be much easier than we had imagined. Looking back, these are a few things that made our journey smoother and more enjoyable.

Bring a stroller. It becomes a safe space whenever your toddler feels tired, overwhelmed, or simply needs a quick nap. Even our compact Babyzen YOYO, with its relatively small wheels, handled Italy's cobblestone streets surprisingly well. If your itinerary includes lots of stairs or hiking trails, however, it's better to leave the stroller at your hotel or at a luggage storage facility.

Stay flexible with your itinerary. We constantly adjusted our plans depending on our daughter's mood and energy level. Avoid scheduling trains too early in the morning whenever possible, as starting the day in a rush can affect everyone's mood. During our trip, we rarely left before 9 a.m., except on the day we had to catch the long train from Bari to Milan.

Food is generally toddler-friendly in Italy. Pasta is almost always a safe choice, especially simple tomato pasta, which rarely failed us. We also preferred accommodations with a small kitchen so we could prepare meals and snacks in advance. Packing a lunch box each morning saved both time and money.

Let your child be a child. We tried to spend at least an hour each day at a playground whenever we found one. Our trip wasn't designed solely to entertain our daughter—it was about enjoying the journey together as a family.

If you're traveling by train, consider getting a Eurail Pass. Children under 11 can travel for free when accompanied by an adult, making it excellent value for families. European trains are also very stroller-friendly, with designated spaces where you don't have to fold your stroller. Many buses offer similar facilities as well.

Travel light whenever possible. If that's not an option, luggage storage services can be lifesavers. Apps like Bounce are widely available across Europe, and many train stations also provide traditional luggage storage facilities. Keep in mind that even modern hotels sometimes have stairs leading to the elevator, so every kilogram you carry makes a difference.

Check your hotel's child policy before booking. Many hotels begin charging for children over the age of two because they require a separate bed. The room rate may be higher, although children are often exempt from the local tourist tax.

Bring basic medicines from home. In many European countries, children's medication isn't as readily available over the counter as it is in some parts of Asia. Depending on the medication, you may need a doctor's prescription first. We found it much easier to pack essentials such as paracetamol, allergy medicine, vitamins, and any other medications our daughter might need.

Don't expect an elaborate hotel breakfast. Most hotel breakfasts we encountered consisted of bread, eggs, coffee, tea, cheese, and cold cuts. While it was perfectly adequate, we often found ourselves craving the wider variety we're used to in Asia. Packing extra snacks for the day turned out to be a great decision.

I'm sure I'll think of a few more lessons after this trip—but perhaps those can wait until our next adventure.

Our favorite photo from Matera