EUROtrip with a Toddler, Because Why Not? (Part I)

 

The Super Beautiful Lake Bohinj

Eurotrip has always been my favorite traveling time, and the last time I went there was Autumn 2017! It's been more than 8 years! We planned to travel back in winter 2020, all was ready; tickets, visa, and hotel reservations, then COVID happened—two weeks before our trip. Talking about timing!

Then I came across a ticket promo from Jakarta to Milan (return) via Saudia. And just the previous year, I swore I would avoid Saudia if possible, simply because their departure time is inhuman for babies, toddlers, kids, and even for a middle-aged woman like me! But economic principles always win, so I purchased the ticket, barely batting an eye.

And yes, talking about timing! The war happened just three weeks before my departure. I felt like the Universe forced me to avoid Europe, but pardon me, everything was already booked, and we felt it was impossible that Jeddah would become a warzone (Saudia transits via Jeddah), so we packed our bags lazily just a day before departure.

When we made this trip, our daughter had just celebrated her 3rd year in this world. She is basically not a picky eater, but we were worried there would be limited choices for Muslim meals or rice in Europe. Hence, like any other Asians, we packed rice (lots of it) and a mini rice cooker just in case. And yes, it was the best decision we ever made.

Our trip spanned 18 days (including the flight time from and to Jakarta), and most of our destinations were in Italy, with the detailed itinerary as follows: Milan (1N) - Bolzano (2N) - Verona (1N) - Ljubljana (3N) - Florence (3N) - Naples (1N) - Matera (1N) - Bari (3N) - Milan (1N).

I will write down my trip (maybe) in 3 parts so that I have enough room to write a little bit in detail, but not too much to bore anyone. I feel this is very important for me to write because memories fade away, but I can remember the feeling by rereading my trip journal.

Preparation

Our luggages so far

We applied for a Schengen visa via Italy (obviously!) in January 2026 and got approved within only 3 working days. One of the fun things about bringing a toddler to Europe? The visa is free. I mean, I didn’t need to pay the visa fee at all, only the appointment fee (around IDR 300k+). From what I read, children under 6 years old are free, and those between 6–12 years old get a 50% discount. And yes, I’ll share later how many advantages there are when traveling with a child in Europe.

Funny thing is, we initially planned to apply via Austria. Our old itinerary (back in 2020) was mostly in Austria, and honestly, we were too lazy to recreate everything. But when we came to VFS Austria, they politely refused to process our application because our flight was landing in Italy, no matter how long we planned to stay in Austria. At least they refunded the appointment fee.

So, we went back to the drawing board, recreated the itinerary, and decided to just explore Italy. We had been there before, but only covered Milan and Venice. And once again, it turned out to be one of the best decisions we’ve ever made.

We traveled from mid-March to early April, expecting mostly spring weather. We knew Bolzano and Ljubljana would be colder than the other cities, but still, I didn’t prepare bulky jackets. Just a tweed coat and a few Heattech shirts.

But the “responsible mom” in me packed differently for my daughter. Down jackets, coats, Heattech sets, wool sweaters—you name it. I learned my lesson the hard way when she was 23 months old and we went to Hakodate in early May, only to be greeted by a freezing world. She was shivering, and I felt like a complete failure. I never want to feel that way again.

And yes, I also brought a mini rice cooker (the same one we used when she was under 2), some instant baby food from Japan, rice (lots of it) and a few packs of instant noodles.

For accommodation, we mostly booked hotels, preferably ones with a mini kitchen or at least a microwave. We only booked apartments in Ljubljana and Bari, mainly because we needed access to a washing machine. Since we’re light travelers, we didn’t want to bring too many non-essential items, especially clothes. In total, we had one large luggage, one medium luggage, a stroller, a backpack for my husband’s laptop (since he still had to work occasionally), and my hand-carry bag. Traveling by public transport made us even more determined to keep things minimal.

For transportation, we purchased a EURAIL Italy Pass for 3 travel days, mainly for long routes like Florence–Naples, Trieste–Florence, and Bari–Milan. Yes, it’s a bit pricey but again, children under 6 travel for free. So we paid for 2 passes and got 3, which meant our daughter had her own seat on the train.

And honestly, that’s a game changer. In some countries (like Japan), kids may travel for free, but they don’t get their own seat. Having that extra space, especially on long train rides, made a huge difference.

Europe, We are Coming!

Enjoying the playground

When we finally landed in Milan at 14:00, my heart burst with happiness. I didn’t realize how much I really, really missed Europe until we finally made it to the airport exit. Navigating the metro was relatively easy, just like in any other country. Train tickets can be purchased using a Visa or Mastercard by simply tapping it on the reader. But paranoid me, of course purchased the ticket beforehand.

We stayed at Scarletti Hotel Milan, about 400 meters from Milano Centrale. The hotel is strategically located near many halal restaurants, mostly owned by South Asian migrants. This meant a lot to us because we didn’t need to cook our rice, haha.

Our first night in Milan was spent just resting. We walked around and found a playground for our daughter, but we couldn’t stay long because too many people were smoking there. The real deal would start the next day; our trip to Bolzano.

view from our train window

The next day, we took the Frecciarossa train to Bolzano, with a transit in Verona. We left one large luggage at the station and continued the journey to Bolzano. The thing about traveling with an active toddler is that we don’t want to spend our energy bringing many things to many places.

The train ride from Verona to Bolzano was such a treat. We marveled at the lines of mountains from our glass windows. The weather was crisp, about 12 degrees Celsius. There were no vineyards in bloom yet, but the fields were already green. So far, no snow in sight.

Then we arrived in Bolzano and wow! It was just our second city in Italy, and it already exceeded our expectations!

Bolzano (2N)

Bolzano Piazza

Bolzano is the capital city of the South Tyrol region, a region famous for its Dolomites. Most people know that the Dolomites are a slightly cheaper option to enjoy the Alps compared to Austria or Switzerland.

When we stepped out of Bolzano Station, we walked directly into a huge park with a playground in it. There was a mall with modern architecture near the park, with a subtle appearance that did not feel too juxtaposed compared to the old buildings surrounding it. The park had huge trees forming something like a tunnel that led us to the piazza.

When we saw the piazza, we realized that this city was not a typical Italian city. I felt like I was in Austria. We walked further into the old town, bringing our luggage to our hotel. The old town was quite compact, and there were many bakeries selling apple strudel, pretzels, and of course coffee shops with the very Italian (outdoor and Illy logo).

the smaller street in Bolzano

Fun fact, most people in Bolzano are bilingual, speaking both German and Italian. This city was part of the Austria-Hungary Empire until it was handed over to Italy after World War I.

After checking in, we walked around again, bringing the stroller — yes, it is very stroller-friendly! There are sidewalks with marble floors along most of the main streets. Even on the cobblestone pathways, the stroller could still maneuver, though once in a while it got stuck between the stones. But never mind.

I think what I loved the most about Bolzano was the atmosphere. We noticed right away that this compact city felt like a permanent weekend getaway. The sky seemed bluer, and we could even smell cinnamon and freshly baked bread in the air. People walked casually with their dogs, never in a rush, and there were lots of bicycles everywhere. There were even many small children freely running around and riding bikes in the streets. Nobody seemed disturbed by it.

And the weather was not too cold, considering the city lies in the valley of the Alps. Of course, the bright pastel-colored buildings, flowery balconies, and the Alps standing proudly in the background made me want to move to this city immediately.

the Bright-colored building with its Balcony

The next day, we actually didn’t really have a concrete itinerary. Initially, we only wanted to ride the cable car near the station (Renon Cable Car / Funivia del Renon), but we noticed that it was under maintenance in March 2026. So we asked around, and several people recommended that we go to Alpe di Siusi instead.

At first, I was a bit conflicted because I thought it would be too far for our baby girl. It turned out to be only about an hour bus ride from the Bolzano bus terminal. But we went anyway, taking in the most breathtaking bus views along the way. The road was narrow and winding, and in some spots vehicles even had to take turns to pass. Deep down, I felt grateful we didn’t end up renting a car, because we hadn’t realized the terrain would be quite tricky.

We could simply tap our Visa or Mastercard on the card reader inside the bus, so there was no need to book anything in advance. There was also a small television screen announcing the next bus stop. Yes, it was an easy ride.

The Dolomites

Of course take a picture first

Trusting the application a little too much, we got lost at the Telfen bus stop. But wow, that small mistake led us to one of the most breathtaking, wallpaper-worthy views of the Dolomites. There were wide grass fields with tiny churches scattered around — exactly how you would imagine the Alps to look.

After taking tons of pictures, we waited at the bus stop for the next bus to take us directly to Compatsch. But it took forever, so we asked a bus driver for help. He informed us that we should go back to the previous bus stop and take the cable car to Alpe di Siusi instead. And you know what? The bus driver didn’t even charge us when he took us back to the previous stop.

Without further ado, we took the cable car — the longest one we had ever ridden — ascending up to Alpe di Siusi. It was a magical experience! At first, all we could see were green fields with lots of wild horses peacefully minding their own business, giving such strong spring vibes. Then, after passing one smaller mountain, the landscape suddenly changed into a winter wonderland. It felt like we had entered a completely different dimension and season. Unfortunately, the cable car windows were scratched and blurry, so it was impossible to take any decent videos.

first view

the next view

After we got off the cable car, we were pretty hungry and decided to have a lunch first then explore the areas. We walked about 500 meters and found a small restaurant with high rating. Actually, it is because there is a playground in the front of the restaurant, we decided to go there. But, hey it is turn out the best Risotto we ever tasted up until now!

When I say that Italy is very child-friendly, I really mean it. Peoples in there like kids, and it is so easy to find playground everywhere, just around the corner. Evenmore, the restaurant provide my daughter some toys so she won't get bored whilst we wait for our food. 

Just look at the view from the window!

There was a small window inside the restaurant with a killer view. I mean, imagine living in a house with scenery like that! I think all I would do would be wrapping myself in a blanket, enjoying cups of coffee, and reading lots of books. Once in a while, when the weather was nicer, I would pack my ski equipment and go outside to enjoy the mountain air. Yes, just by looking through that little window, I had already imagined a whole life there.

or Just chilling

and she enjoyed the treat

After finishing our lunch, we explored the area and walked a little further down to the snowy fields. After playing in the snow for a while, unfortunately we couldn’t find any hiking paths that went farther. Most of the paths seemed dangerously crowded with skiers.

We spent about three hours in Alpe di Siusi and decided to head back because we still wanted to explore Bolzano a little more. But just before reaching the bus stop, we found another empty playground right beside a river. Yes, it was another little treat for my daughter!

We went back to Bolzano and spent some time walking around the city while doing a bit of shopping. The next day, we checked out in the afternoon and took the train to our next city, Verona!

I really wish we could have spent more days in Bolzano because we didn’t manage to visit other lakes or Ortisei during this trip. Maybe we need to come back to Bolzano another time!

Verona, the Juliette's home town!

Verona Arena

Our next journey took us to Verona. We took an Intercity train from Bolzano and rode for 1.5 hours. Since we traveled on a weekday and at noon, the train was quite empty. We booked the train via an OTA (not directly through Trenitalia) because of a promo code. It worked just fine, with no need to do anything except show the QR code to the train conductor. Anyway, throughout the 17 days we traveled by train, the conductor always checked the tickets.

When we arrived in Verona, the weather was quite chilly because of the wind. And when we got out of the station exit, I was a bit disappointed because the train station was smaller (and quieter), and there was nothing remarkable in sight. We stayed at a hotel near the station, only to find rows of old apartments surrounding the area.

After checking in and tidying up, we decided to walk to the old town while enjoying the city. It was a 1.5-kilometer walk, with nothing piquing my interest yet. We found a Turkish restaurant and decided to have a late afternoon meal there.

Then we finally arrived at the old town. Our first view was the Verona Arena, with a piazza surrounding it. The Verona Arena, even older than the Colosseum in Rome, was built in 30 AD and is still used for concerts and opera performances until today.

A statue at Piazza with a building full of fresco

While we were enjoying the scenery, my daughter saw a small train car and demanded to ride it. I mean yes, it is a very touristy thing to do, but wow! After walking 1.5 kilometers, riding the train car while enjoying the rows of beautiful buildings in the old town was such a treat that I didn’t know I needed.

All my earlier disappointment instantly dissipated. Verona is super beautiful. Most buildings use pink stone, giving a warm and romantic tone to the city. Some buildings are also painted in warm yellow and terracotta shades, while their windows; with small balconies and green shutters blend beautifully with the wall colors.

Even better, at Piazza delle Erbe, some buildings still have frescoes on their outer walls, like they literally flexed their artistic taste outside their houses!

When I stood there, I was in awe. I think this is the true identity of an Italian city. While the city is colorful and vibrant, it never loses its gracefulness.

Another fun fact (that I heard from the commentary on the train car): Verona used to be a center of business and trade back in the Roman and Medieval eras. The buildings there (especially along Via Mazzini) were merchant houses, and their owners were super rich. The more strategically located their shop was, the more prestigious the family became.

The green window shutter 

And of course, there is no memory of visiting Verona without stopping by Juliet’s House. Actually, pardon me, I was quite reluctant to visit Juliet’s House at first because rumor had it that the queue was unbearably long. But when we passed by, there was no queue at all, and the best thing was — it was free! No entrance ticket needed.

We took pictures of the infamous balcony and the statue, of course, then left for our next stop, Castel San Pietro.

Juliette's balcony

Another fun fact: Juliet’s story is fictional, created by William Shakespeare. Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta) is merely symbolic, not the real house of Juliet. That’s why I was quite dumbfounded when I heard about the myth that touching Juliet’s statue would bring good luck, especially in matters of love.

Castel San Pietro

Anyway, we walked again in the direction of Castel San Pietro, but we didn’t want to go up there since it was almost sunset and we didn’t have much time to spare. We were still jet-lagged and sleepy. We stopped across the river and watched the castle’s pink color slowly turn into a bright orange. It was a magical moment! Not only the castle, but all the buildings across the river changed colors as the sun rays began to set.

After that, we took a bus and headed back to the hotel. Dead tired. I really wish we could have spent more time in Verona because one day barely covers the beauty of this vibrant and historically rich city.

Then I said to myself right there, I will definitely come back to Verona and spend more time there!

Our next journey would take us to another beautiful city, surrounded by the Alps — Ljubljana! But since this post is already too long, I will continue my travel journal in the next post!